Deep inside the border, guns were firing and bullets were spraying in numerous
directions. At times they were within a few feet of my body and yet at times they were a world away. This was determined by the frame of mind I chose to be in. Considering the situation in which I found myself, I was holding up pretty well. It's amazing what crosses your mind when you reach the point in your life where you admit to yourself, it could all end today.
Before I set out for this country, I had a premonition something like this would
happen. All reports I had read about Somalia encouraged what I experienced. So you go to a land of war and famine with certain pictures in the back of your mind. You expect the worst and the reality of the situation is far more disastrous than what you first envisioned.
I was traveling by convoy from Baidoa to Mogadishu. In the process we would
cross tension areas. However, we were told things would be relatively safe. We had our own hired protection. Plenty of young men brandishing Soviet and U.S. weapons. Our convoy consisted of three passenger vehicles, two transport vehicles carrying supplies, and three protection vehicles loaded with freelance soldiers, hired to protect relief and United Nations workers. Things went smoothly for about two hours. And then all hell broke loose.
It happened so fast, making it hard to recall the events. First, there were two
vehicles ahead blocking the road. I assumed there would be trouble, but I never
anticipated or imagined what happened next. When our hired hands saw the vehicles, they immediately began to fire their weapons. And sure enough, the opposition fired back. It was strange for me to be in an environment where no one negotiated through conversation. Negotiating in this country came down to who had the best weapons and most ammunition. Fortunately we did on this day.
After about forty-five minutes, the firing ceased. Our enemy grabbed their
wounded, threw them into their vehicles and sped off. We did the same. And that was it. Just like that. To me it was mind-boggling. To the Somalis traveling with us, it was normal. And to the U.N. and relief workers that had been in the country for some time, it was somewhere in the middle of the two extremes. “Welcome to Somalia,” they told me. After sitting in stunned silence for a few moments, I finally asked for an explanation to what was just experienced. Most could not answer. For they really did not know. They just dismissed it as life in Somalia.
Somalia is unlike any place I have ever been. One cannot even understand or comprehend the horrendous situation without being there. Maybe a page out of my journal can paint the picture more accurately.
Driving through Mogadishu's streets is a nightmare. Every building is bombarded and
bullet ridden. Women wrapped in black shawls walk toward feeding centers, hoping to find food for themselves and their babies. Holding their heads, children are crying while fighting for food. Under a palm tree I see skeletal bodies lying unconscious. On every street I see glass- eyed people with heads too big for their bodies. All along the roadside, people are standing watching the sun, shielding their eyes and brushing flies from their faces. Armed teenagers are visible everywhere. All around the villages and towns, many of these young men are dying. Most could not tell you what they are fighting for.
Every few hundred yards or so, I see dead bodies. There are no wrappings or coverings,
they lay there as if they were asleep. I am told that a truck comes by every morning picking up the bodies of the previous night's dead. They are then wrapped in food sacks which held rice donated by the United States and then transferred to Somali grave diggers who will drive truckloads of bodies to makeshift cemeteries out in the bush. Usually the numbers add up to over 1200 a day throughout Somalia. I feel paralyzed by the horror I am witnessing. I cannot write any more.
One lesson I learned in Somalia is this: big government action will not bring
lasting change. Neither can we rely on the United Nations to serve as a moral enforcer or a solver of the problems this world is faced with. In most of these situations they seem powerless. And as this world expands, population explodes, we will inevitably be faced with more Somalia type situations. As I write, there are screams coming from all over this stained planet. Human advancement and better technology do not silence the cries. Technology cannot change hearts, heal wounds, and wipe away tears. Neither can human advancement. And big government and billions of dollars will not produce
lasting change. I have found only one thing that can transform a broken and
bruised world. Only one. Compassion. Nothing else. And compassion is conspicuous by its absence in many of our lives. This is evident by our actions and what we choose as priorities. The insatiable desire to focus on ourselves causes us to become immune. Numb. Sidetracked. Blind.
It was through my experience in Somalia that I learned the true meaning of
compassion. Through all the suffering and horror, I realized compassion is not
sympathy. Neither is it pity. And it's more than a desire to help. Much more.
Compassion is action. It's responding to needs without hesitation or emotional stirring. It's simply seeing each person on this planet as a person of worth and value, regardless of their situation. Compassion is a gut-wrenching sense of the needs of others that motivates us to action.
Somalia caused me to feel some of the deepest pain and heartache I have ever felt. It also caused me to feel joy. Compassion is what linked these opposites. Pain and heartache were felt because of the horrendous suffering of people. Joy was experienced because of a light in the middle of that dark hell. This light was an old man. His story caused me to feel something I have not felt in a long time. His example taught me a powerful lesson: through compassion . . . pain will become the bridge to a new joy.
Hassan Mursa is sixty-four years of age. His life has not been one of great
excitement. Most of it has been spent in a small village in central Somalia. For the last five decades he has been a shepherd and farmer. Over the last fifty years, almost everyday has been the same - wake up at the break of dawn, watch a few animals, plow a little land, search for food and water, and retire to a dirt floor when the sun sets.
Hassan had a large family. This was his pride and joy. He loved playing with his sixteen grandchildren and five great-grandchildren. One of his greatest thrills had been teaching his children and grandchildren how to hunt. He was looking forward to passing down the teachings to his third generation offspring. But then Somalia was devastated by its current crisis. As a result, his great grandchildren would have to wait. Survival was now the main priority for the family. Quickly, most of Hassan's male children found themselves joining the army of their respective clan. Older grandchildren soon followed. And off to war they went. None returned.
Eventually, food could no longer be found in and around the village. Slowly death crept in. It never left. Within four months, seventy percent of the village died. All were victims of hunger and disease. Hassan was now the only adult male alive in the village. He knew something had to be done. So early one morning he gathered all the remaining survivors in the village and informed them it was time to leave. They could no longer wait for husbands and sons to return from war. Time had run out. It was either leave or die. And so the exodus began. Over sixty people began to walk into an uncertain future following a weak and frail sixty-four year old man.
After three days of walking, fourteen had died. In this group lay two of the five
great grandchildren. Two days later another sixteen were captured by death. Hassan's three daughters were among the victims. But on he went. His large family of thirty-seven had now dwindled down to eight. Three-grandchildren, two-great grandchildren, two daughters-in-law, and himself.
Along the way, Hassan saw bodies everywhere. Death was striking whom it pleased. Villages were abandoned. Carcasses lay strewn along roadsides. Vehicles were destroyed. Towns were blown up. Somalia looked like Armageddon. Hassan hated what he saw. How could his own people turn against each other and destroy their own country? This question haunted him. Yet, Hassan never lost hope. Onward he pressed.
During his journey, Hassan found others wandering aimlessly in search of help. Mostly women and children. All were members of opposing clans. In other words, they were the enemy. Hassan despised these people. After all, their families were partly responsible for killing his. He could gladly ignore them and leave them to die. The thought of taking this particular form of vengeance brought to light what ruled Hassan's heart. And at that point, Hassan became appalled by the hatred he saw in his own heart. He was trapped by the very evil he despised. Even if he found a feeding center and survived, what freedom could he ever find when his soul was imprisoned by murderous hate? He now understood where the real war in Somalia was being waged . . . in the heart.
So Hassan battled his own soul and fought off his personal feelings. And what he did as a result was courageous. Recognizing where the real war was, he moved forward to bring peace and healing. He took the enemy in and allowed them to join his group. In the midst of trying to ensure his own survival and the survival of remaining family members, compassion took over. He saw others worse off than himself. A trickle of light was now shining brightly in a very dark situation. There was hope for Somalia. Compassion was the source of this hope.
Finally, after twelve days of searching, Hassan and his group of forty arrived at a
Red Cross feeding station. After walking over one hundred miles on nothing but hope, there was a chance for survival. Of the original villagers, only thirteen made it. Of the enemy picked up along the way, twenty-seven survived. And of Hassan’s family, only three remained; a granddaughter, a great grandson and himself. In the process of losing most of his family and friends, Hassan Mursa reached out to others in need. Compassion was displayed. And lives on the brink of death now had a second chance. Pain had indeed become the bridge to a new joy for at least forty people. Compassion built that bridge.
Sitting here, reflecting on the courage of one man's compassion, I think I know
what Hassan's new joy is. Remember the great grandson, the only one to survive. He is going to learn to hunt. The one he calls grandpa is going to teach him. In the process, I have a feeling the great grandson is going to learn a little more than hunting. He will learn how to build bridges. May we learn to build them as well.
Let’s not become calloused people. Reach out to those less fortunate. Build a bridge. You just might feel something you have not felt in a long time. And in the process . . . in someone's world . . . pain will become the bridge to a
new joy.